Wednesday 28 May 2014

Why stop at Kiwi spotting??





  
Maungatautari ecological island is the worlds largest fenced nature reserve. Forty seven kilometres of predator proof fence surround the Maungatautari forest, with the aim of preserving and increasing the numbers of native New Zealand species. The introduction of rats, stoats, possums and other small predator species to New Zealand has severely affected the populations of the native birds and other species; including the elusive Kiwi. 
 

I visited Maungatautari one weekend to take part in a Kiwi health check experience. I arrived at the stated time, feeling pretty excited about the afternoon to come. However, when I checked in, the volunteer at the visitors centre looked dismayed and told me she didn't think it was running that day. I was so disappointed to hear this, and quite confused as to what had happened. The team at Maungatautari, it seemed, were as at a loss as I was, and offered me a private tour of their Wetland reserve whilst they tried to sort everything out.

I headed with my guide down to the wetland area as he explained the predator proof fence and the other methods of keeping the native species safe. The main attractions in the wetland reserve are the Takahe and the Tuatara. The Takahe is a flightless bird so endangered that it was once thought to be extinct, until a population was found in the mountains in Fjordland. I was lucky to spot a breeding pair and their one year old offspring; the offspring tend to stay with the parents for up to 18months, but the newly hatched Takahe remained out of sight.

The Tuatara is a much older species than the Takahe; this reptile was walking the earth alongside the dinosaurs! Found only in New Zealand, the Tuatara are also endangered and are no longer found in the wild on mainland New Zealand. Their population decline is not only due to predators, but also due to their slow breeding habits; tuatara breed about every two years, and the eggs take up to two years to hatch! Maungatautari reserve have 22 Tuatara in their wetland area. Sightings can be tricky, so I was thrilled to see three Tuatara, including a male and female sharing a burrow (a sign of impending breeding) - a truly Jurassic experience!

On our return to the visitor centre I was met with good news – the Kiwi health check was indeed going ahead! It appeared the time of the event had changed and I had been missed off the email list to notify attendees of this change. The six of us on the tour were soon on our way into the reserve, leaving the footpaths behind and following our two guides into the depths of the bush. The guides, with the help of their Kiwi-sniffer dog, had already tracked down the Kiwi they would be carrying out the health check on. The Kiwis on Maungatautari, although behind a fence, are wild and very rarely come into contact with humans. Indeed, Kowhai, the Kiwi we would be checking, had not been seen by our guides for over 18months. The purpose of the health check is just that – to monitor the health of the mountain's Kiwi pouplation, through visual inspection of eyes, mouth, ears, quality of coat, and weight. Kowhai, a two year old male North Island Brown Kiwi, was declared in fine health, and we then all had the superb experience of being able to hold a wild Kiwi!! It was incredible to hold such an endangered species; Kowhai was much heavier and bigger than I had imagined, I could feel the power and strength in his legs as I held them tightly. The beak is extraordinarily long, although in reality Kiwis have the shortest nose of all birds (the nose being measured from the nostrils to the beak tip, and the Kiwi's nostrils being right at the end of the beak!), and the coat of Kiwi feels more like the coat of a German Shepherd than feathers. It is truly an extraordinary bird!

 

Tuesday 27 May 2014

The Sulphur City

 





As well as a short trip to Rotorua with Sarah and Fred, I also spent a couple of days on my own in the sulphurous city. The smell is one of the first things you notice as you start walking around the city – Rotorua is a geothermally active area, with hot-pools, geysers and volcanoes all in the vicinity.

On my first afternoon in Rotorua I walked down to the lake-front, past steaming drains and through a park with several fenced off areas for mud-pools and hot-pools. The views across the lake were spectacular but soon the smell of the sulphur and the onset of heavy rain drove me away from the smoking landscape and into the museum.

 








In the evening I attended one of the many touted cultural experiences at the Te Puia geothermal valley. Te Pō (the night) is an evening of Maori storytelling, entertainment and food. On arrival we were welcomed by our guide and shown the Hangi pit – the underground geothermally heated ovens that have been cooking the evening's meal for the previous few hours. We proceeded to the entrance of the Marae where the Powhiri (ceremonial welcome), the Wero (challenge) and Karanga (welcome call) took place. These involve calls, chants and dances to show strength, intimidate, and determine that you come in peace. Luckily we passed this challenge and were able to proceed into the Marae for the evening's concert.

The singing and dancing were fantastic – we enjoyed several different songs and the dancing was superb. The women were mesmerising when performing the Poi dance, and the men were certainly a force to be reckoned with when performing their Haka – a dance traditionally used to prepare men for battle, and more modernly to prepare the New Zealand All Blacks for rugby matches! After seeing the experts, we were all given the chance to get involved; with the women learning to Poi dance (much harder than it first appears) and men putting on their war faces for the Haka.

After all the singing and dancing we were ready to eat the Hākari (feast); a magnificent spread of meat, vegetables, salad and desserts, before heading into the thermal valley for the last event of the evening. Seated on the hot rocks, we enjoyed hot chocolate whilst watching the Pohutu geyser shoot hot water and steam up to 30metres into the air. It was a wonderful evening, although I'll admit it did feel more touristy than authentic at times. 
 
The following day I headed to the redwood forest just south of the city and enjoyed a short walk through a forest of giants, before driving a bit further afield to walk a track at the Green and Blue Lakes; two lakes side by side separated by a thin strip of land but sitting at different elevations, and with two very distinct colours (not that it shows in my photos, alas). 

 

I returned to the city for a tour of the lengthily named Tewhakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao, a thermal village still lived in by the local Maori. The tour, by one of the residents, felt much more authentic, and gave insight into how the Maori lived in the geothermal landscape and harnessed the earth's powers for their own benefit.
My final stop on my geothermal adventure was to the Waikite Valley to bask in the hot-pools with the sun shining down on me – bliss!


Thursday 24 April 2014

Travels with Sarah and Fred




Back in January Sarah and Fred escaped the bad weather in the UK for a two week trip to NZ. I was so excited to be seeing Sarah again; she is one of my best friends and we always have a great time together. They had their own holiday plans, but we did manage to spend some time together. Firstly in Auckland, where we all stayed with Harriet and Anthony and the girls for the weekend. After lunch on the Saturday we all headed to the Skytower for some beautiful views over Auckland, and the experience of standing on the glass floor and looking straight down to the ground far far below. Our plans for an exciting evening were scuppered as both Fred and Sarah fell victim to jet lag that night.

After a great Sunday breakfast with the Chengs, the three of us took the ferry over to Devonport for a wander around the town and the gun emplacements at north head. We had a great day, stopping for refreshments in Devonport and back in Auckland before heading back to Harriet and Anthony's for a delicious dinner. The following day saw Sarah and Fred heading to the Coromandel and myself driving south to Hamilton, awaiting their arrival in a few days time.

That Friday, having finished work, I got a text from Sarah saying they were in Te Awamutu. She didn't say where in town they were, but I had a hunch I'd know right where to find them and headed to the pub! Lo and behold – I found them just in time to get a drink off them! We spent a lovely couple of days at Paul and Carole's, including a brilliant day at the beach in Raglan – sun, sea, views, a picnic and some kayaking in the river estuary made for a blissful day out. We also experienced what would be the first of many adventurous activities over the next few days by going black water rafting at the Waitomo Caves with Alice. This involved squeezing into a damp wetsuit and with the aid of a rubber ring floating through the freezing water in the Waitomo Caves system with the luminous glow worms carpeting the cave ceilings like bright constellations. The trip was beautiful and peaceful at times, but did have its fair share of fun moments; including three waterfalls you have to jump down backwards into your rubber ring to land with a satisfying boom-splash into the water below!

On the Monday Sarah, Fred and I headed off for an action packed few days in Rotorua and Taupo. First on the list was an early morning drive to north of Lake Rotorua to take part in some white water rafting. The trip, down the Kaituna river, has the distinction of having the world's highest commercially rafted waterfall on its route – an epic 7metre drop!!!! The weather was pretty cold and miserable, and as we changed into our wetsuits, I couldn't help wondering if this would be a cold and miserable experience to boot! I needn't have worried; our Japanese guide Hiro was so brilliant and funny we were laughing before we even got to the river! The rafting was so much fun – we enjoyed the beautiful scenery in the calmer sections of the river, and did some screaming and hollering throughout he adrenaline pumping rapids. We flew and bumped our way down through rapids and over two pretty high waterfalls, before pulling up just short of the big one. Hiro began talking us through what to do before listing the three options that could happen; 'Option one: we go down, finish the right way up – yaaaaay!!! Option two: we go down and capsize – its okay just swim back to the boat. And option three: we go down and get stuck under the waterfall for a while – no problem just hold your breath!' Feeling more and more apprehensive following this pep talk we watched as the raft ahead headed towards the edge of the falls, before tipping up almost vertically and vanishing from view. There was silence apart from the thundering water as we waited to hear what had happened..... 'They capsized!' came the shout; 'all clear!'. And it was suddenly our turn.

 We paddled strongly towards, before dropping down and holding on as instructed as the raft tipped and flew straight down the waterfall. As the boat hit the water my head was whipped back with the force and we fully submerged. Underwater it was difficult to know what was happening so I focused on holding on tightly, before, all of a sudden, we popped back up the surface. We whooped and shouted in jubilation – we had just rafted a 7metre waterfall and come up the right way up! The rest of the trip was a bit gentler, with some rapids and a few games whilst we paddled our way to the pick up point.

We three adventurers then headed into Rotorua for a victory lunch and to do 2 of the must-dos when in “Roto-vegas”; the skyline gondola and luge track, and one of the thermal parks. Sarah and Fred were, dare I say, blown away by the lugeing – which allows you to hurtle down the side of the hill on a toboggan, with bends, jumps (if you go fast enough) and the space to overtake those slower than yourself. Fred and I sped down with Sarah following at a slightly, shall we say, more sedate pace! It was then onto Te Puia thermal park, for some up close views of bubbling mud, hot pools and geysers. 

 Onwards we drove that afternoon to Taupo, to spend a couple of days by the lake. Alas the weather was not very amenable and sometimes it was difficult to be sure there was a lake there at all. It was a shame for Sarah and Fred as the cloud-line didn't allow them to fully appreciate Taupo's beauty or size – the lake could fit the entire city of Singapore inside it!
The following day we were due to go kayaking to see the Maori carvings on lake Taupo, but the weather had not lifted and the trip organiser had rung and cancelled the expedition. Stranded for a rainy day in Taupo we got ourselves organised and booked onto a boat trip to the carvings which would still allow us to get up close to the rocks without as much hard work or dampness. With time to kill we headed up to see the Huka falls, although our time to take in the view was shortened after Sarah had a few cicadas dive bomb her, before heading to the bars and pubs for some lunchtime drinks.
 
The boat trip out to the Maori carvings was great fun, although I was surprised at how far away the carvings were (and secretly glad we hadn't kayaked all that distance!). The lake scenery was beautiful, and we were lucky that the weather lifted in the afternoon, allowing us better views and a spot of well-missed sunshine. The stone carvings are a pretty cool sight – looming over you at over 10metres high, although not as old as you first think; they were carved in the 1970s as a gift to the town and lake.

 












Our final day in Taupo was, thankfully, better in the weather department, allowing us to add two more adventures to the week's tally. First up was a helicopter ride up above the Lake, town, Waikato river and Huka Falls. I had never been in a helicopter before and it was very exciting to be swooping around in the skies, and the views from above were spectacular. The trip was over all too soon, but I will never forget the experience!. On a high and buzzing from our helicopter ride we headed to the Taupo bungy for one last experience. The helicopter pilot had flown over the bungy, telling us that a friend of his has the honour of being the only person to ever fall off the bungy platform – despite a few broken bones and bruises he lived to tell the tale! Not put off by this story we booked in; me for my second bungy, and a Sarah and Fred for a tandem swing (Sarah had ankle surgery last year so bouncing by her ankles wasn't really an option). I took the plunge first – just as mind-blowing and thrilling as last time – and then it was Sarah and Fred's turn. They were harnessed together and suspended out over the edge of the platform with the river far below. The guy in charge asked them if they wanted a countdown to being released or a surprise. Sarah had barely time to think of a reply before they were released – free-falling towards the river before swinging out high and wide. It looked like so much fun and Sarah was grinning ear to ear after the experience!

After a celebratory lunch, celebrating having survived caves and ice cold water, 7m high waterfalls, a helicopter ride and a bungy/swing, we parted ways – Sarah and Fred towards New Plymouth, and myself to the bus station to catch a bus back to Hamilton. It was a great few days and I am so happy to have had adventures with my sister on the far side of the world!!

Sunday 9 February 2014

Little Trips

As well as mini-breaks away during my days off, I have taken lots of little day trips, exploring the Waikato region bit by beautiful bit.
On a blue skied, sunny day, I took a drive out west to Mount Pirongia – a rambling mountain overlooking the Waikato area. Having had a snoop on the Department of Conservation website it seemed there were several walks over Mount Pirongia to choose from; from short walks at the base, to multi day hikes to the distant summit. I decided to 'tramp', as the Kiwis call it, to the Ruapane lookout. The track starts with an easy uphill, but before long had become almost a wall of rock which I clambered up using my hands and feet. An hour later I arrived, pretty hot and puffed at the Ruapane lookout. The views were breathtaking – looking out for miles over the vast, green Waikato plateau towards Hamilton, Ohaupo and Te Awamutu. The rest of the Pirongia mountain dominated the views behind; trying for the summit on my own in a day was definitely out of the question, but I spied another little hilltop not too far away which I set my sights on conquering. The track to it descended steeply and followed a lower ridge until I came bang smack into another wall of rock – this one so steep that chains were provided to help you pull yourself up. Undeterred I clambered up to this second lookout point, where I sat and revelled in the beautiful views. 


Back at the car I decided to drive out to Kawhia to check out the beach. The sun was beaming down on the black sand, which was almost too hot to walk on, so I cooled my heels in the ocean before heading back to Ohaupo.

Another day out took me along the Waikato river to the Arapuni dam. Around 70% of the North Island of New Zealand's electricity is hydroelectricity, mainly provided by the 11 dams along the length of the Waikato river. The Arapuni dam in itself is nothing remarkable, but the hydroelectric power station has a spectacular swing bridge leading to it, which was built for the workers in 1929. The bridge spans the broad gorge, with the river far beneath, and is a fun little half hour diversion.

On the second of January (lucky kiwis get two bank holidays for the new year!) Alice and I took a hike on the Te Tapui Loop Track; a steep climb to reach the wooden platform at the summit, which awarded us with superb views of the Kaimai Ranges (which were the Misty Mountains in the Lord of The Rings Trilogy).


Alice and I also took a day trip to the Karangahake gorge. Not only did this mean a diverting little stop in Paeroa, birthplace of the fizzy drink L&P ('World Famous in New Zealand Since Ages Ago!), but also a fun day exploring the tracks and tunnels at this abandoned gold mine and battery. The walk included a 1km long tunnel to wander through, as well as lots of side tunnels great for exploring provided you have a torch with you! After a fun few hours nosing about we headed down the road to a waterfall and natural pool for a picnic and a swim – bliss!




The Hunua Ranges, South-east of Auckland, offered another day of hiking and beauty. The 9km hike started and finished at the Hunua Falls – New Zealand just has so many pretty waterfalls! The track led steeply up to a ridge-way which I followed for a few Kms, getting glimpses through the ferns and palms to the view of Auckland in the distance, and through a Kauri grove before reaching a lookout point with views over a reservoir. This reservoir is one of several in the region providing Auckland with water, and is gorgeous, looking more like an ocean inlet than a man made reservoir! After lapping up the views, I descended to the water's edge and crossed the dam, rejoining the forest track on the other side and following it back another 4km to the car-park. Another wonderful day!!







 

 

Hobbit Holes and Hot Pools

Whilst out on their New Zealand Adventure, Elizabeth and Richard spent a few days at Paul and Carole's. It was really great to see them both, and we got to catch up with all the family, enjoy some adventures together and, some would argue most importantly, play some cards. Inevitably Elizabeth beat us all spectacularly at her special subject; Racing Demons, but I proudly remained unbeaten champion at Play on Words, so all was right with the world.

Our first of two day-trips took us west to MataMata, to see the wonderful world of Hobbiton. This film set has been developed as a major attraction, and contains hobbit holes, gardens and the green dragon pub. It was quite pricey to visit but well worth it if you like all things LOTR/Hobbit. Elizabeth, Richard and I got fully into the spirit of the visit, even donning fancy dress for some photos at the pub! We also learnt a few interesting facts on just how pernickity Peter Jackson was when it came to getting things right; for example, in Hobbiton are planted an orchard of apple and pear trees. However, there is one line in the books describing Hobbiton as having plum trees, so Peter Jackson ordered the existing apple and pear trees be stripped of their leaves and have individual Plum tree leaves wired on instead!!

After indulging in a couple of hours of Hobbity-fun we journeyed onto Tauranga to Mount Maunganui. The mount is an extinct volcano sat at the end of a beautiful beach. A few minutes steep climb brings you to the top, where you can sit under the swooping para-scenders and admire the stunning views. Having climbed up and down, and being a bit hot, bothered and dusty, we decided to indulge in a bit of spa therapy at the salt water hot pools at the base of the mount. For only a few dollars you can sit and soak in the hot outdoor pools, gazing with triumph at the Mount you just conquered!
The following day we headed south to Waitomo. Not to head to the coast as I had previously done, but to see the world famous Gloworm caves. We took a guided tour through the cathedral-esque caves to the gloworms, which you can admire in the pitch black whilst gliding silently through the water on a boat. In case you're interested; the Gloworms are actually the larval stage of a fly, and they hang luminescent strands down from the ceiling to catch their food. I really enjoyed seeing the Gloworms; they definitely have a magical air about them, as they sparkle above you!

On the way back to Ohaupo, we stopped at the Otorohunga Kiwi House. A fun little bird sanctuary where you can see all sorts of native birds, including the reclusive Kiwi. We went into the Kiwi House first, and once our eyes adjusted to the dim lighting, could see, behind the glass, the two Kiwis. It was wonderful to see them, and I have to say their comical run, with their heads bobbing with every step, is just fantastic!! We then headed out into the main sanctuary, where we came across all sorts of birds, including the massive wood pigeon – about 5 times the size of a normal pigeon (no wonder they used to be a Maori delicacy!), and a brilliant little grey, white and yellow bird with a heap of attitude!

All in all a wonderful couple of days with Elizabeth and Richard!