Wednesday 28 May 2014

Why stop at Kiwi spotting??





  
Maungatautari ecological island is the worlds largest fenced nature reserve. Forty seven kilometres of predator proof fence surround the Maungatautari forest, with the aim of preserving and increasing the numbers of native New Zealand species. The introduction of rats, stoats, possums and other small predator species to New Zealand has severely affected the populations of the native birds and other species; including the elusive Kiwi. 
 

I visited Maungatautari one weekend to take part in a Kiwi health check experience. I arrived at the stated time, feeling pretty excited about the afternoon to come. However, when I checked in, the volunteer at the visitors centre looked dismayed and told me she didn't think it was running that day. I was so disappointed to hear this, and quite confused as to what had happened. The team at Maungatautari, it seemed, were as at a loss as I was, and offered me a private tour of their Wetland reserve whilst they tried to sort everything out.

I headed with my guide down to the wetland area as he explained the predator proof fence and the other methods of keeping the native species safe. The main attractions in the wetland reserve are the Takahe and the Tuatara. The Takahe is a flightless bird so endangered that it was once thought to be extinct, until a population was found in the mountains in Fjordland. I was lucky to spot a breeding pair and their one year old offspring; the offspring tend to stay with the parents for up to 18months, but the newly hatched Takahe remained out of sight.

The Tuatara is a much older species than the Takahe; this reptile was walking the earth alongside the dinosaurs! Found only in New Zealand, the Tuatara are also endangered and are no longer found in the wild on mainland New Zealand. Their population decline is not only due to predators, but also due to their slow breeding habits; tuatara breed about every two years, and the eggs take up to two years to hatch! Maungatautari reserve have 22 Tuatara in their wetland area. Sightings can be tricky, so I was thrilled to see three Tuatara, including a male and female sharing a burrow (a sign of impending breeding) - a truly Jurassic experience!

On our return to the visitor centre I was met with good news – the Kiwi health check was indeed going ahead! It appeared the time of the event had changed and I had been missed off the email list to notify attendees of this change. The six of us on the tour were soon on our way into the reserve, leaving the footpaths behind and following our two guides into the depths of the bush. The guides, with the help of their Kiwi-sniffer dog, had already tracked down the Kiwi they would be carrying out the health check on. The Kiwis on Maungatautari, although behind a fence, are wild and very rarely come into contact with humans. Indeed, Kowhai, the Kiwi we would be checking, had not been seen by our guides for over 18months. The purpose of the health check is just that – to monitor the health of the mountain's Kiwi pouplation, through visual inspection of eyes, mouth, ears, quality of coat, and weight. Kowhai, a two year old male North Island Brown Kiwi, was declared in fine health, and we then all had the superb experience of being able to hold a wild Kiwi!! It was incredible to hold such an endangered species; Kowhai was much heavier and bigger than I had imagined, I could feel the power and strength in his legs as I held them tightly. The beak is extraordinarily long, although in reality Kiwis have the shortest nose of all birds (the nose being measured from the nostrils to the beak tip, and the Kiwi's nostrils being right at the end of the beak!), and the coat of Kiwi feels more like the coat of a German Shepherd than feathers. It is truly an extraordinary bird!

 

Tuesday 27 May 2014

The Sulphur City

 





As well as a short trip to Rotorua with Sarah and Fred, I also spent a couple of days on my own in the sulphurous city. The smell is one of the first things you notice as you start walking around the city – Rotorua is a geothermally active area, with hot-pools, geysers and volcanoes all in the vicinity.

On my first afternoon in Rotorua I walked down to the lake-front, past steaming drains and through a park with several fenced off areas for mud-pools and hot-pools. The views across the lake were spectacular but soon the smell of the sulphur and the onset of heavy rain drove me away from the smoking landscape and into the museum.

 








In the evening I attended one of the many touted cultural experiences at the Te Puia geothermal valley. Te Pō (the night) is an evening of Maori storytelling, entertainment and food. On arrival we were welcomed by our guide and shown the Hangi pit – the underground geothermally heated ovens that have been cooking the evening's meal for the previous few hours. We proceeded to the entrance of the Marae where the Powhiri (ceremonial welcome), the Wero (challenge) and Karanga (welcome call) took place. These involve calls, chants and dances to show strength, intimidate, and determine that you come in peace. Luckily we passed this challenge and were able to proceed into the Marae for the evening's concert.

The singing and dancing were fantastic – we enjoyed several different songs and the dancing was superb. The women were mesmerising when performing the Poi dance, and the men were certainly a force to be reckoned with when performing their Haka – a dance traditionally used to prepare men for battle, and more modernly to prepare the New Zealand All Blacks for rugby matches! After seeing the experts, we were all given the chance to get involved; with the women learning to Poi dance (much harder than it first appears) and men putting on their war faces for the Haka.

After all the singing and dancing we were ready to eat the Hākari (feast); a magnificent spread of meat, vegetables, salad and desserts, before heading into the thermal valley for the last event of the evening. Seated on the hot rocks, we enjoyed hot chocolate whilst watching the Pohutu geyser shoot hot water and steam up to 30metres into the air. It was a wonderful evening, although I'll admit it did feel more touristy than authentic at times. 
 
The following day I headed to the redwood forest just south of the city and enjoyed a short walk through a forest of giants, before driving a bit further afield to walk a track at the Green and Blue Lakes; two lakes side by side separated by a thin strip of land but sitting at different elevations, and with two very distinct colours (not that it shows in my photos, alas). 

 

I returned to the city for a tour of the lengthily named Tewhakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao, a thermal village still lived in by the local Maori. The tour, by one of the residents, felt much more authentic, and gave insight into how the Maori lived in the geothermal landscape and harnessed the earth's powers for their own benefit.
My final stop on my geothermal adventure was to the Waikite Valley to bask in the hot-pools with the sun shining down on me – bliss!